Thursday, 17 June 2010

Alpina B5 Bi-Turbo

I’m still eagerly awaiting for BMW to release how the M-Sport package for the new F10 BMW 5-Series will look like but for those who prefer something a little more aftermarket than just a regular M-Sport package there’s always the Alpina kit, and this is what the Alpina F10 will look like.

This first sketch released by Alpina shows the Alpina B5 Bi-Turbo, which will likely be based on the 550i. It will be fully unveiled at the Goodwood Festival of Speed in the UK this year. You can expect Alpina to work similar magic with the 4.4 liter twin-turbo V8 engine as they did in the B7 Bi-Turbo based on the 750i.

In the B7 Bi-Turbo, Alpina managed to extract 500 horsepower and 700Nm, which is up from the engine’s stock 407hp and 600Nm figures, but still less than the M version of the engine found in the X5 M and X6 M which makes 555 horsepower but curiously less torque than the Alpina engine at 680Nm. That M engine can be massaged to make crazy figures as high as 715 horsepower and 845Nm of torque, as Nowack Motors managed to demonstrate earlier this year.

Tuesday, 15 June 2010

Proton Satria Neo R3 Lotus Racing Test Drive

We’ve been itching to drive the Proton Satria Neo R3 Lotus Racing the moment we saw it in the metal and read through the spec sheet. From the amount of interest generated by the posts about it on this blog, we reckon that you would also want to know how a RM115,000 Proton with an upgraded Campro, trick suspension and mega brakes would drive. Well, we just attended a media test drive session of the Neo R3 at Proton’s test track and guess what, it’s a cracker!

Continue reading the report after the jump.

First, let’s get some standard Neo complaints out of the way. I’m not the tallest guy around at 1.75 m, but with helmet on, seat pushed to its lowest point and in my correct driving position, my head is too close to the roof and sun visor for comfort, and I’m looking out from the top part of the windscreen. This is a design flaw that can’t be reversed, so we’ll have to live with it. The seats and steering wheel can be more special but the reason there’s no Momo or Recaro here is because R3 wanted to put this car to market in a short period without compromising safety (for instance, changing the seats and their mounting points would have required safety testing, and the hassle won’t be worth it for a 25-unit run).

Starting the car and moving off is simple, no elephant strength required for the standard clutch, and the Neo slots through the gates cleanly; the action is a little slicker than the standard Neo CPS if memory serves right. As you’ve heard in our previous post, the Neo R3 sounds much more “fierce” than the standard car, but it’s not just exhaust rumble. As you pull away from low to mid rpm, you can hear the engine sucking in air and this hissing intake noise goes well with the deep voice of the exhaust. There are no torque dips or holes in the power delivery, although one needs to remember that this is a high-revving NA engine, not a turbo car that jumps off the line – you wouldn’t fault a Type R for feeling normal below the VTEC zone, would you?

Personally, I like the sensation of the Campro CPS’ switch over point, where the engine gains a second wind before rushing to the redline with an urgency not seen below 4,000 rpm. The feeling is intensified and prolonged here, as the Neo R3’s 145 bhp Campro redlines at 7,500 rpm. The fact that we’re running out of dial space (last figure is 8,000 rpm) at that point makes it even more fascinating. The shortened gear ratios make reaching those engine speeds an easy task that can be repeated from first to fourth (we didn’t max the car in top gear). In truth, the engine felt like it could still go on at 7,500 rpm. It won’t be too much to describe this as “Type R Lite” experience.

Besides the high speed oval with 45 degree banking, we also drove the R3 in the middle of the track, where Proton designed slalom, acceleration and braking tests. Without any official timing, we can only subjectively say that those four-pot AP Racing brakes provide enormous stopping power, and you’ll never run out of brakes in this car unless you’re being silly. The slalom run showed off the lighter headed Neo R3’s sharp turn in and good grip from the Bridgestone Adrenalin tyres, but instead of super glue like adhesion, the Proton let its tail loose a bit as it danced through the cones. Body control is excellent.

One of the major highlights of this car is the Ohlins adjustable suspension. These Dual Flow Valve items are bespoke and tuned according to R3 given specs. Proton says that it gives the Neo R3 a compliant ride even on the worst roads, and although we did not get to test that claim, we got a hint of the suspension’s real world comfort at the track. With four in the car, we went pass a rough surface with a dip in the road. No harshness, no bottoming out and no “aftershocks”.

How does DFV work? Explained simply, when the damper encounters high shaft speeds (such as when the car passes a pothole or undulations) the “second valve” opens for faster oil escape. This fast reaction gives the car optimum traction and allows for constant contact between tyre and road, so there’s reduced impact.

Trick suspension aside, no other chassis mods were required. R3 boss and top drifter Tengku Djan said that the Neo’s structural integrity was already very good, and its chassis stiff and rigid enough. Most of the 62 kg weight reduction is at the car’s front end, and the wheels shave about 2 kg of unsprung weight at each corner.

Unfortunately, we were only given a short time behind the wheel, and did not have the chance to try the ultimate Satria Neo on the road. One day, perhaps. Yes, 145 bhp is not much, and RM115K is a lot of money (quality items don’t come cheap), but the Satria Neo R3 Lotus Racing pushes all the right buttons and delivers the right sensations for the enthusiast. Some may think of those 25 owners as fools, but I’ll call them lucky fools.

Volkswagen Vetta 2011

Volkswagen has pulled the wraps off the 2011 Volkswagen Jetta, which is the sedan version of the Mk6 Golf hatchback. The Jetta, which received an American premiere at NYC’s Times Square will be priced from around $16,000, which is lower than the base price of its predecessor and should see it go head on with the Chevrolet Cruze and Ford Focus sedan in the US. The launch tagline is “great, for the price of good.”

VW has high hopes for the Jetta in the US, which is understandable as the car is said to offer best in class rear legroom, a premium interior and a driving experience from the class above. “The 2011 Jetta is a class-up driving experience with the kind of styling, design and power under the hood normally found in more expensive luxury cars. At an extremely attractive price, this car is sophisticated, fun to drive and practical,” gushed Stefan Jacoby, CEO of Volkswagen America.

As with all new models, the Jetta has grown from the Mk5 Golf based car. Width and height are unchanged, but the new car is longer by 86 mm to make 4.64 metres. The familiar Golf 2,578 mm wheelbase has been extended to 2,650 mm for this application. Not so much a luxury as a must, as classmates like the Honda Civic have set the benchmark at 2,700 mm.

In terms of looks, the Jetta wears VW’s latest design theme with sharp lines and clean surfaces. They call it “timeless elegance and dynamic styling”, we say it’s a very good hatchback-to-sedan conversion and a handsome car, if a little conservative. But that’s what people love and expect from VW; those looking for bold, avantgarde design will have to look elsewhere. Accurately previewed by the Detroit 2010 NCC show car, notable design cues include the gloss black long grille, well defined but not aggressive wheelarches and the prominent shoulder line or “tornado line” in VW speak. Rims can be up to 18 inches in size.

Inside, most will think that the Jetta’s dash is lifted straight from the Golf; it looks so, but that’s not the case. Although the layout is familiar, the main dash moulding is squarer in the Jetta. Here, the instrument binnacle hood “flows” into the centre stack while the Golf’s is independent. The air vents in the Jetta are rectangular. VW has also moved the wing mirror controls back to the door panel, which is less intuitive than in the Golf. Like the C-segment hatch benchmark, material build quality should be top notch.

North American Jettas will come with four engines, including a 2.0 TDI Clean Diesel with 320 Nm, good for 0-60 mph (0-96 km/h) in 8.7 seconds. The others are a 2.0, 2.5 R5 (5-pot diesel) and the 2.0 TSI. All engines will come with a manual as standard, but a six-speed auto is an option. The 2.0 TDI and TSI can be had with a 6-speed DSG.

Would this have been the next-gen Waja if Proton-VW talks didn’t go down the drain? Gallery after the jump.


Not only did Audi win Le Mans in convincing fashion, the four rings showed off a prototype of the Audi R8 e-tron electric sports car at the race. Racing legend Frank Biela took the e-tron out for a spin in the Le Mans vers le futur demo event for EVs. The previous time Audi had an e-tron on show was at Detroit, with the tech wrapped in a TT-sized body.

The R8 e-tron is powered by four motors connected to a wheel each for quattro grip. Combined, they provide 313 hp and 4500 Nm of torque (no it’s no a typo), propelling the two-seater from 0-100 km/h in just 4.8 seconds. 70% of power goes to the rear wheels while the rest goes to the fronts. The battery sits behind the passenger cabin for a 42:58 weight distribution.

Torque vectoring from the four motors mean that understeer and oversteer can be corrected by not only targeted activation of the brakes, but also by precise increases in power by few milliseconds. The R8 e-tron is claimed to remain extremely neutral even under great lateral acceleration, “hustling through corners as if on the proverbial rails” according to Audi.

The car’s lithium-ion battery can be charged from a household plug socket (230 volts/16 amperes), taking six to eight hours to be refilled. Kinetic energy from the brakes is recuperated, channelled to the alternator and converted into electrical energy. It all sounds good, but when is Ingolstadt finally putting an e-tron into production?

Gallery after the jump.


Starting out as the PS-II prototype in 2001, the Spirra was the brainchild of Kim Han-chul and his wife Choi Ji-sun, “automotive experts” who quit their jobs in Korean car companies to establish Proto Motors. After years of financial turmoil, the company was absorbed by the Qullim group and was renamed Qullim Motors, who now aims to be Korea’s first supercar manufacturer with the Spirra. Production started in March and deliveries will start soon.

The mid engined, rear driven Spirra will be hand made using a full carbon fibre body over a tubular space frame. This keeps weight to a minimum (kerb weight 1,320 kg) while maintaining a strong and stiff body structure. It was originally planned with a V8 but eco concerns changed that to a range of 2.7-litre V6 engines. It’s not mentioned where this unit is from, but the 2,656 cc gives its origins away as a Hyundai motor.

The starter V6 is naturally aspirated with 175 hp and 245 Nm of torque. Next up is the same engine with a “small turbo” with 330 hp and a “big turbo” unit with 400-420 horses. At the top of the range is the twin turbo with 450-500 hp and 539 Nm of twist. Paired to a six-speed manual, the top Spirra does the benchmark 0-100 km/h sprint in 3.5 seconds, while top speed is 310 km/h! Quite phenomenal stats. Brembo is in charge of the stoppers – 6-piston calipers up front and 4-piston fists at the back keeps the Korean supercar in control. The top model is also the only one to get an LSD.

The leather trimmed interior gets Recaro bucket seats, OMP 4-point harness and a Momo steering wheel. For the tame looks, this is the explanation. “The Spirra’s design is aggressive in stance and proportion, but less aggressive in the details. This look is intended to inspire excitement, but not completely shout that it is a supercar. An elegant and natural looking supercar design was what we were looking for,” says its maker.

Saturday, 12 June 2010

JPJ Rules for Private Car Modifications in Malaysia

Guidelines on exterior modifications:

Minor modifications or add-on accessories which is allowed without asking the permission from JPJ

There are some modifications or add-on accessories which can be done without getting any permission of the Head Director of JPJ, especially those which do not give any effect of characteristics, stability and safety of the vehicle, such as:-

1. Front and rear air spoilers
2. Side skirts, aerofoils and door visors
3. Front and rear protecting guards
4. Minor modifications on radiator grilles, front bonnet or shape and design or the lamps.
5. Modifications or add-on of big bumpers (either it is metal or fibreglass) at the front and rear.
6. Bigger size of rims and tyre
7. Roof rack
8. Additional brake lamps (red in colour) or signal lamps (Amber in colour)
9. Spot lights or Halogen lamps (Both white and yellow) at the front region, which serve as an additional to the existing lamps.


The list above will be updated and edited from time to time.

However, these minor modifications and add-on accessories have to fulfill all the needs of the law which is listed in Motor Vehicles (Construction and Use) Rules 1959 or Motor Vehicles (Construction, Equipment and Use) Rules 1988.


1. Air spoiler, aerofoil or side skirt. not over 150mm measured from the area outwards from the rear tyre.

2. Door visors. not over 100mm width and height.

3. When using big rims or wide tyres, it should be fully-covered with mudguards or mudflaps.

4. Protecting guards. It should not cover the vehicle's lamps. Sharp edges or pointing parts which is more than 100mm are not allowed. Also, the overall width should not be more than the vehicle's original width.

5. Add-ons of big bumpers or protecting guards, the extra allowance should not exceed 50% from the vehicle's wheel base.

6. The distance between headlamps and signal lamps should not exceed 300mm and 400mm, measured from the widest area of the vehicle after modification.

7. Roof rack. It should not exceed the length of the roof, or width of the vehicle or the height of 400mm, measuring from the highest region of the vehicle.


Add-on accessories which are not permited

1. Blinking lamps (except the signal lamps and hazard lamps) at the front or rear of the car.
2. Lamps which are BLUE, PURPLE or GREEN in colour.
3. Musical or two-tone horns .
4. Spotlights at the rear of the car.
5. Dark mirrors or coloured stickings (tint) at the front windscreen, rear windscreen and side windows, which the go-through rate of light is less than 70%.

Note: However, the installation of dark mirror or coloured stickings (tint) on top of the front windscreen can be as much as 20% of the width and the triangle glass of the side windows are allowed. The list above will be updated from time to time.


Types of modification which requires the permission of JPJ before installations

If the modification and add-on of additional accessories can cause a big differences in terms of design, measurements, stability and safety, and characteristics of the original vehicle, a written permit is required from JPJ. Examples:-

1. Modification on the frame andstructure or monocoque frame of a motorized vehicle.
2. Modification on its shape or original characteristics of the vehicle.
3. Modification from a saloon car to a convertible car.
4. Modification on the fuel system.
5. Changes on the braking systems
6. Changes on the steering system
7. Changes on the vehicle's wheel base
8. The use of fibreglass body as to replace the metal body parts.
9. Changes on the engine.
10. Installation of sunroof on the roof.

Guidelines on window tints:

Kaedah 5 (1) dan Kaedah 5 (3),Kaedah-Kaedah Kenderaan Motor (Larangan Mengenai Jenis-Jenis Kaca Tertentu) Pindaan 2000, stated that the front mirrors has to be not less than 70% of light go-through, where as the rear mirror and the side windows have to be not less than 50%.

Special exception for dark mirror installations

Installations of dark glass is given to certain selected people only as written under kaedah 11(a) dan 11(b),Kaedah-Kaedah Kenderaan Motor (Larangan Mengenai Jenis-Jenis Kaca Tertentu) 1991. Those who are not listed under kaedah 11(a) dan 11(b) who are having exposed skin health problems or life threat, can be granted with the special exception on special installations of dark mirrors.

Wednesday, 9 June 2010


The Mitsuoka Orochi is one of the most scary looking cars of all time, but the design is deliberate since the car is inspired by a monster from Japanese folklore that has eight heads and eight tails! Introduced as a concept at the 2001 Tokyo Motor Show, the serpent started life as a production car in 2007.

“Yamata no Orochi was a gigantic snake with a body that was the length of eight hills. Its fiery orange eyes struck fear in all who saw it, and its belly was blood red. This giant had eight heads and eight tails. Mitsuoka Orochi’s stylish body replicates the firm muscles of the Yamata no Orochi, the power and energy of the legendary snake captivating your attention whichever angle you view it,” explains the car’s designer Takanori Aoki.

Mitsuoka, a company more famous for rebodied mass market cars with old world styling, has now introduced a special edition of the Orochi called Premium Gold. As its name suggests, the car has a new gold paint job along with additional spoilers at the front and rear. Only 20 Premium Gold Orochis will be made.

The hand crafted Orochi is powered by a Toyota 3.3-litre V6 which produces 233 bhp and 328 Nm of torque paired to a five-speed automatic – not bad, but the pace won’t be as fearsome as the looks with those kind of figures. Interested? The Orochi is actually available in Malaysia, alongside Mitsuoka’s other “classic cars”. It was launched here back in August 2007, with Malaysia being the second country to sell it after Japan. Last we heard, it carried a price tag of RM1,025,000! The local distributor is Able Automobile, which has a showroom in Petaling Jaya opposite the University Hospital.

Saturday, 5 June 2010



Sebenarnya, setiap tayar mempunyai maklumat yang terperinci berhubung jenis, saiz dan keumpamaan, termasuk minggu dan tahun keluaran. sesiapa saja dapat memahami maklumat ini untuk membuat pilihan tayar yang tepat bagi kenderaan mereka. cara paling tepat memahaminya adalah dengan memilih satu contoh tayar dan menelitinya sedikit demi sedikit.

Di bawah ini adalah panduan untuk makna nombor yang paling penting bagi sebuah tayar. Sebagai contoh, kita akan teliti nombor berikut: 175/70R13 82H. Nombor 175 yang pertama dalam siri merujuk kepada lebar tayar itu dalam milimeter, iaitu jarak diukur dari sisi ke sisi. biasanya jika lebih besar nilai angka ini lebih lebar tayar itu. Nombor 70 menyatakan nisbah aspek (aspact ratio) tayar atau ketinggian tayar berbanding dengan kelebaran tayar itu.

Dalam contoh, ketinggian tayar adalah 70% kelebaran tayar itu. Biasanya tayar dengan nisbah aspek 55 kebawah diklasifikasi sebagai tayar profil rendah. Tayar profil rendah memberi prestasi pengendalian keseluruhan yang lebih bagus walaupun aspek keselesaan mungkin boleh terjejas sedikit.

Huruf "R" merujuk kepada binaan tayar radial dan kesemua tayar kereta menggunakan binaan radial sejak 20 tahun lalu. Tayar binaan radial tidak mempunyai tiub dan memberi prestasi lebih bagus. Angka 13 merujuk kepada garis pusat (diameter) rim untuk membolehkan tayar dimuatkan. Jika ingin menukar kepada tayar dengan diameter lebih besar, anda juga perlu menukar rim kepada diameter sama.

Nombor 82 melambangkan indek keupayaan mengangkut berat tayar itu. Untuk mengetahui berat maksima melambangkan nombor "82" kami perlu merujuk kepada carta "index keupayaan mengangkut tayar berat" yang ditetapkan diperingkat antarabangsa. sebagai contoh, nombor 82 bermakna tayar mampu memikul berat maksima 475 kilogram. Berat maksima meujuk kepada setiap tayar, kita perlu darabkan 4 kali untuk memperolehi kapasiti memikul berat kenderaan dengan empat tayar. (contoh: 475 x 4 = 1900 kg)

Huruf "H" yang terakhir adalah menyatakan kelajuan maksima bagi sesebuah tayar yang direka. Taraf kelajuan H dalam contoh bermakna bahawa tayar ini boleh mencapai dan mengekalkan kelajuan sejauh 210 km/j.
Dibawah adalah senarai carta kelajuan maksimum seperti yang dilambang oleh setiap huruf abjad.

S - 180 km/j
T - 190 km/j
U - 200 km/j
H - 210 km/j
V - 240 km/j
Z - melebihi hadlaju 240 km/j
W - 270 km/j
Y - 300 km/j
Untuk tayar yang mempunyai keupayaan mengatasi kelajuan 270 km/j, huruf ZR akan digunakan.


Reader Melvin spotted these three Mitsubishi Lancer GLX cars with trade plates turning out of Proton Shah Alam’s side exit (not the one facing KESAS). There’s really nothing to tell though from these photos, except the fact that it’s an indicator that the Proton Lancer rebadge project is still on and is probably going to be unveiled before the end of the year.

In any other circumstance you would think these were just regular Lancers from a Mitsubishi showroom out for a test drive and there’s probably a chance that they are, however turning out from Proton Shah Alam rings some bells.

Look after the jump for two more photos of the other two cars.

Wednesday, 2 June 2010



Berikut adalah beberapa tips cara penjagaan minyak kereta yg sy dapat daripada majalah n internet n pengalaman sendiri.

■SEBELUM ini anda mengisi RM30 untuk mengisi petrol kereta anda dan boleh bergerak hingga 200 kilometer. Kini dengan jumlah yang sama kereta anda cuma dapat bertahan 150 kilometer saja. Ada yang mengatakan kereta anda sudah kuat makan petrol.
■Penggunaan petrol yang bertambah disebabkan beberapa faktor seperti kebocoran, permukaan bahan api dalam ruang pelampung karburetor terlalu tinggi, penapis udara tersumbat atau pelarasan skru pada karburetor kurang tepat.

■Selain itu, ia mungkin berpunca daripada saat penyalaan kurang tepat, plag haus, suis pemutus arus terbakar, mampatan tidak cukup, injap yang tidak berfungsi, ekzos tersumbat, masalah pada cekam atau brek bergesel.

■Bagi mengetahui puncanya, pertama, pemilik perlu memeriksa dengan melihat pada tempat meletak kenderaan. Jika ada bekas titisan minyak atau terhidu bau petrol di kawasan itu, bermakna kenderaan mungkin mengalami kebocoran dan ia perlu dihantar ke bengkel untuk dibaiki. Bagaimanapun, jika kebocoran berlaku pada sambungan paip petrol, ketatkan sambungan yang longgar menggunakan spanar dan jika masih bocor, buka skru berkenaan dan lilitkan benang vinil dan ketatkan sambungan itu kembali

Sebenarnya ada beberapa tip dan cara yang paling minimum untuk menjimatkan penggunaan bahan api sekali gus menjimatkan perbelanjaan harian anda.

■Sehubungan itu, adalah penting bagi anda memerhatikan kadar penggunaan petrol bukan sekadar harganya tinggi tetapi penggunaan bahan itu secara berlebihan menandakan enjin kereta anda mengalami kerosakan.

■Jika anda mendapati penggunaan petrol pada kenderaan secara berlebihan, periksa puncanya sebelum membeli sebarang alat bantuan mengurangkan penggunaan petrol yang banyak di pasaran. Ini kerana pembelian alat berkenaan mungkin tidak memberi kesan sepatutnya jika keadaan enjin kereta anda mengalami masalah hingga menyebabkan penggunaan petrol bertambah. Umumnya cara terbaik mengekalkan tahap penggunaan petrol ialah dengan melakukan pelarasan enjin.

■Selain itu, perkara penting yang perlu diketahui pengguna ialah sikap dan cara pemanduan kerana ia banyak mempengaruhi penggunaan petrol kereta. Antaranya, menggunakan gear dua atau tiga terlalu lama sebelum menukar ke gear seterusnya, tabiat menekan pedal minyak terlalu kuat ketika pemanduan mendatar atau menuruni bukit boleh menyebabkan penggunaan petrol yang berlebihan.

■Sehubungan itu, apabila anda melakukan pelarasan enjin, ia membantu mengurangkan penggunaan petrol sehingga 15 peratus di samping teknik memandu yang salah juga menjadi punca penggunaan petrol melebihi 20 peratus atau lebih.

■Di samping itu, anda juga perlu mengetahui apabila membawa bebanan yang lebih daripada kadar yang sesuai juga menyebabkan kadar penggunaan petrol melebihi dari tahap biasa.

■Oleh itu, anda perlu perhatikan dalam but kereta anda, mungkin ada banyak barang yang tidak sepatutnya berada dalam but tetapi dibawa ke sana ke mari. Ia pasti menambah beban enjin

■Anda harus membawa barang yang perlu saja seperti alat membaiki kereta dan alat yang dapat membantu ketika kecemasan.

■Karier (alat membawa barang atas bumbung kereta) juga boleh menambah penggunaan petrol pada kadar lima peratus. Karier menghalang udara berlepas ke belakang dengan sempurna ketika kereta memecut.

■Enjin dalam keadaan panas normal juga boleh membantu meningkatkan perbatuan dan prestasi kereta anda. Biarkan enjin panas sebelum memulakan perjalanan dan jangan sekali-kali memulakan perjalanan tanpa terlebih dulu merancang jalan mana untuk ke destinasi.

So, antara cara2 nak save minyak kereta adalah,kot tuan punye kete je “iman” x cukup kuat nak follow semua rules tu…

1.Tidak “rammed” RPM hingga redline pd tiap gear tiap kali lepas trafik light

2.Tidak membrek secara mendadak dari kelajuan yg tinggi (emergency kes berkecuali)

3.Tidak membawa “beban” yg x perlu di dalam kete (setiap penambahan berat 50kg akan ketara menambah penggunaan petrol kete)

4.Penggunaan rim yg “ringan” – tp konfem mahal le kalau beso

5.Angin tayar yang mencukupi (terlalu kurang – petrol tambah, terlalu lebih – bahaya tambah)

6.Membawa kelajuan yg bersesuaian dgn kapasiti & enjin kereta. (Cth kalau kete 1.3-1.6 purata suitable speed yg save minyak dalam purata 80km/j & top 120km/j)

7.Elakkan penukaran kepada gear yg tidak sesuai dgn keadaan & speed kereta